Travelouge Iran

Our family of five, along with nearly 800 other passengers, were aboard the Emirates’ double decker A-380, having departed from New York’s JFK on the night of winter solstice 12 hours earlier and expecting to arrive in Dubai within an hour. We noted that, unlike in the past, the Persian Gulf on the navigation screen simply had no name designation, factual or fallacious. Looking down however, we were ecstatic to witness the snow-capped, extinct volcanic Mt Damavand, elevation 18,500 ft, eternally standing high and proud to safeguard the motherland Iran. The fact that we had to fly over the whole of Iran all the way southbound, wait in transit at Dubai airport for five arduous hours, and then backtrack north to land at the Tehran Airport, had given us a twilight sense of déjà vu. It was a reassuring and soothing feeling to leave behind the unfriendly, desolate and barren Arabian desert south of the Persian Gulf and enter the snow capped mountains, forests and prairie lands of Iran. After many worries due in part to the recent passage of a US law against Iranians traveling home, we felt a fuzzy feeling of comfort to be home and warmly welcomed.

The rapid processing of our passports and collection of our luggage at Tehran airport was followed by the sweet reality of finding ourselves in talkative relatives’ cars, while driving home on empty superhighways at dawn. Staying with our niece, her real estate tycoon spouse and their two children in their third floor ultramodern four bedroom condo in northeast Tehran was a special treat, as they took the famous 24/7 warm Persian hospitality to the next level. On our second evening, they threw an all-out family party in the building’s concealed community room, 2,500 square feet in size, where they catered with Persian cuisine, desert and refreshments, accompanied by music and entertainment. Our wishful hope to avoid repetitive gatherings so we could instead go sightseeing morning to midnight did not materialise, as we saw the same family members and close-knit friends repeatedly at lunch and dinner in the coming days. The honoured guests were our ageing parents, loved, hugged and kissed by all, especially the dozen or more grandchildren and great grandchildren present, including four born in the US.

The next day, we were drawn back to the Palladium, an upscale shopping mall which differs from anything we had previously seen in the US or in Europe. The giant ornamental Christmas tree and the serenading Santa Claus at the grand main entrance, the boutiques, the fast food court, and the exquisite restaurants are unparalleled. Only the very affluent in Iran can afford these prices, but for Western visitors the prices are akin to the cost of an average restaurant meal. The supermarkets had a vast array of Persian and Western products and staff politely offered assorted samples, which themselves almost amounted to a full meal. Anywhere one went the surreal sensation of the perennial tales of Scheherazade and the One Thousand and One Arabian Nights could be felt. Located in the foothills of the snowcapped Alborz mountain range one can find my family’s home for the past 60 years, my primary and secondary schools, as well as my alma mater, the National University. Are these are within a short walk from the mall. In fact, we visited the house, now a modern four story building. We then spend the afternoon hiking for a couple of hours along the nostalgically narrow alleys of Darkeh and the Haft Howz-Palang chal trail and stopped to rest, sip tea and consume sweets topped with the freshly baked flat taftoon bread in a wooden cabin next to the foaming river. As we listened to a nostalgic song by Sivash Shajarian (circa early 1970s), we tasted sangak, barbari, Yazdi and lavash breads, various type of feta cheese made from Persian lamb’s milk, and fresh vegetables topped with Shirazi salad. We found my father in a serene trance hiking towards a shelter a few hours up the mountain where he decided to stay overnight. Later, the trip to the Tochal Hotel ski resort, located at 13,000ft above sea level, topped off the excursion.

When our family friend took us to enjoy a live show at the Kourosh Mall & Entertainment Complex west of Tehran, we were in awe at its modernity: 14 movie theatres (3,000 seats), many fine restaurants, a 750 seat live theatre, and six floors of underground valet parking! The show, a live comic musical interspersed with sexual and political innuendoes, was captivating, even for our children who only have a rudimentary knowledge of Persian language.

One shivering evening, we had dinner at Park-e Aab-o-Aatash ("Water & Fire" Park) where we must have crossed the various floors of the Nature Bridge spanning across a major superhighway to connect two hilly parks. The multi-level Pol-e Tabi'at ("Nature Bridge") was designed by a young female architect, Leila Araghian.

Although Tehran now spans over 2,500 square miles, at an elevation of over 5000 feet, and has 12 million residents and nearly 10 million vehicles, it still holds dearly onto its hidden jewels such as pristine springs, ‘qanats', and tree lined streets. We stayed in Darrous and Yousef-Abad, in the heart of these leafy neighbourhoods. We even took a one day tour of the historic quarters of Tehran, when we visited the Golestan Palace, a few historic private homes now turned into museums (such as Moghaddam House and Negarestan Palace) and the major Caravanserai along the silk road where we indulged in the best abgousht, the traditional winter lamb-legume stew, in a traditional setting with its distinctly Persian geometrical turquoise blue tiles. What was noteworthy was the discovery of a seven thousand year old female skeleton right outside this site which is now on display at the national museum in Tehran.

Since we had already visited Esfahan, Kashan, and Natanz (our ancestral hometown) last year, we opted to see Shiraz this time. We overruled our initial intent to avoid the ailing aviation in Iran, by booking tickets with the Aseman Airline and flying aboard a nearly 40 year old Boeing 727. Despite the aircraft’s dilapidated appearance, our 90 minute journey to and from Shiraz encompassed the warmest hospitality by flight attendants and the smoothest takeoff and landing I ever experienced.

Shiraz has been acclaimed since antiquity, not only by the Persians but, equally importantly, by Oriental and Western visitors, as the City of Bulbul (the Persian nightingale), red dry wine, citrus blossoms, rose, narenj (sour orange), citrus and intoxicating blossom gardens, and above all, Persian classical poetry. When we checked into our hotel, the Grand Shiraz, next to the city’s northern entrance arch, Darvazeh Qur'an, we were initially told by the receptionist that our two room suite was on the back of the building facing a muddy hillside. Upon further request by one of the children with a funny foreign Persian accent, harmonious with the native’s love for foreigners, she lit up and exclaimed that the hotel's best suite on the top floor, which faces south overlooking the entire city, was vacant. As precious as the other historical sites in Shiraz are, the tomb of 14th century poet and Sufi mystic, Khwaju Kermani, is also located there, carved into the womb of the mountain.

The $100 (USD) a night suite and delicious breakfast at this five star hotel exceeded all our expectations and surpassed many similar western hotels. We hired a large chauffeured SUV for three days and visited all the major historical sites, including Persepolis, Pasargadae, the resting shrine of Cyrus the Great, Naghsh-e Rostam, the mausoleums of the famous Persian Kings of the Achaemenid dynasty, as well as Eram and other gardens, the Sa’adi and Hafez mausoleums, palaces, mosques, museums, the grand Vakil Bazaar and the Vakil public bathhouse (now converted into an anthropological museum containing a great many wax statutes of Persian luminaries who lived centuries ago), the Shah Cheragh Shrine complex with its ubiquitous and intricate geometrical mirrors and colourful miniature calligraphically designed tiles and courtyards, and Narenjestan-e Qavaam. Although these archeological sites only date back a mere three millennia, there are multiple other ancient sites in Iran, the earliest of which (stone arrows found on the western Zagros range) are believed to be some 17,000 years old.

We had dinner at two traditional restaurants, Haftkhan and Shahrzeh, both of which we recommend highly. The food with a Shirazi twist was simply divine and the ambiance with Persian music played live in the background was intoxicating. The local hymns and the dinner spread out on the floor in front of us led to all those present singing and dancing. Strangely, a Jewish family with two daughters sitting next to us were the most conservatively dressed out of all those present, perhaps wishing to avoid the Vice and Virtue Guards which we never saw throughout our journey. A few days before our return, our three children disappeared and after a few hours we heard from them via cell phone. They were sipping tea and biting onto local pasties at an upscale villa in the Shemshak’s ski resort, an hour away from Tehran.

Our consensus was that if we had to live in Iran, Shiraz faced no serious rivalry from any other city, especially not from the overcrowded and polluted Tehran. We further decided that if and when we return to Iran in the future, we would spend little time in Tehran and instead visit as many other provincial towns and cities as we could in order to deepen and broaden our appreciation for the diversity of Iran's natural beauty and its people. The nostalgic village of Kandelous, tucked into a valley between mountains along the Caspian Sea, has inextricably remained in everyone’s mind.

Our departure from Iran, scheduled for 4am, did not deter crowds of friends and family from stopping by for yet one last lavish supper. Everyone wept during our departure. After almost forty hours of no sleep, we returned home to New York. Although we carried three framed carpets home with us, our remaining five pieces of luggage were mysteriously delayed for five days after the Transportation Security Administration had carefully inspected them (and inserted a note to let us know). Irrespective of governments everywhere that have emerged and disappeared since antiquity, peoples’ aspirations in life remain the same: to survive with dignity and to secure their children’s future. Our family has been fortunate to pass on our Persian heritage and American way of life. And yet, we are not fully certain whether it is a subconscious force or simply our ancestral homeland with its diverse people, that more intimately draws us to Iran above all other places. We recommend this experience to everyone, especially those born Iran and now living abroad. Traveling between two homes, one always leaves behind a piece of their heart in the motherland. Notwithstanding our love for our homeland Iran, we also hold a special place in our hearts for our beloved adoptive home - the great and beautiful America, where we have spent most our lives and where we have raised our children. And last but not least, I ask you to watch one of the last interviews with the late Harvard Professor Richard Fry, the protégé to Iranologist Professor Arthur Pope, and to read about Howard Baskerville. Here is a quandary to resolve: Could we allow the late Richard Fry to fulfil his final wish of being laid to rest in his mentor Arthur Pope’s shrine, alongside the Zayandeh Rud river, in Esfahan?

Pictures from Esfahan

Esfahan:

Pictures from Tehran

Tehran:

Yazd

Yazd

 0351  /  POP 432,194  /  ELEV 1213M With its winding lanes, forest of badgirs, mud -brick old town and excellent range of accommodation options, Yazd is one of the highlights of any trip to Iran. Wedged between the northern Dasht-e Kavir and southern Dasht-e Lut, it doesn’t have the big-ticket sights of Esfahan or Shiraz, but it’s equally enchanting. This is a place to wander and get lost in the maze of historic streets and lanes, not to mention your imagination. It’s also an ideal base for day trips to several evocative villages and towns.

THE BADGIRS OF YAZD

 ny summer visitor to Yazd will understand immediately why the city’s roofscape is a forest of  badgirs (windtowers or wind catchers). These ancient systems of natural airconditioning are designed to catch even the lightest breeze and direct it to the rooms below. To appreciate the eff ect, just stand beneath one. Iranian  badgirs are divided into three common types: Ardakani, which capture wind from only one direction; Kermani, which capture wind from two directions; and Yazdi, which capture wind from four directions. Other variations can capture wind from up to eight directions. All have a structure that contains the shafts, air shelves that are used to catch some of the hot air and stop it entering the house, flaps to redirect the circulation of the wind and a roof covering. The currents that enter the house often do so above a pool of cool water, thereby cooling the air, while the warm air continues its circular path, redirected upwards and out of the house through a different shaft. Genius!

History :

 Yazd has a long and important history as a trading post. When  Marco Polo passed this way in the 13th century, he described Yazd as ‘a very fi ne and splendid city and a centre of commerce’. It was spared destruction by Genghis Khan and Tamerlane, and fl ourished in the 14th and 15th centuries, with silk, textile and carpet production the main home-grown industries. Like most of Iran, Yazd fell into decline when the Safavids were defeated and remained little more than a provincial outpost until the railway line from Tehran was extended here by the last shah.

OLD CITY:

The city’s historic centre emerges like a phoenix from the desert – a very old phoenix. Y azd’s old city is one of the oldest towns on earth, according to Unesco, and is the perfect place to get a feel for the region’s rich history. Just about everything here – including 2000 Qajar-era houses – is made from sun-dried mud bricks, and the resulting brown skyline is dominated by tall badgirs on almost every rooftop. The residential quarters appear almost deserted because of the high walls, which shield the houses from the narrow and labyrinthine kuches (lanes) that criss-cross the town. Follow our walking tour (p 180 ) or just wander around; you’ll discover covered walkways, simple courtyards, ornate wooden doors and some lovely adobe architecture. And be sure to get yourself to the

rooftops at some point for fi ne views over Yazd and into the vast brown expanses of the desert.

Free:Masjed-e Jameh 

 (Jameh Mosque; Masjed-e Jameh St) Dominating the old city, this magnifi cent building has a tiled entrance portal that is one of the tallest in Iran, fl anked by two magnifi cent 48m-high minarets and adorned with an inscription from the 15th century. The exquisite mosaics on the dome and mihrab, and the tiles above the main western entrance to the courtyard are particularly stunning. The gardoneh mehr (swastika symbol) used on the tiles symbolises infi nity, timelessness, birth and death and can be found on Iranian buildings dating back as early as 5000 BC. Built for Sayyed Roknaddin in the 15th century, the mosque is on the site of a 12th-century building believed to have itself replaced an earlier fi re temple. In the courtyard there is a stairwell leading down to part of the Zarch Qanat (closed to the public). Roof access is barred to everyone except Muslim women, who are allowed up on Fridays only.

Bagh-e Dolat Abad 

 (admission US$2.70; h7.30am-5pm, to 10pm summer) Once a residence of Persian regent Karim Khan Zand, this small pavilion set amid U nesco-listed gardens was built about 1750. The interior of the pavilion is superb, with intricate latticework and exquisite stained-glass windows. It’s also renowned for having Iran’s loftiest  badgir, standing over 33m, though this one was rebuilt after it collapsed in the 1960s. The entrance can be reached from the western end of Shahid Raja’i St.

worth a trip:

DESERT NIGHTS

The tiny settlement of Farahzad, 425km from Esfahan, is an oasis located amid sand dunes in the Dasht-e Kavir, just outside the village of Mesr. Its residents, all members of one extended family, make a living from agriculture and by operating Barandaz Lodge (%0324-434 2188, 0913 323 4188; www.mesr.info; full board per person US$35, B&B US$10), an 11-room guesthouse occupying two beautifully restored mud-brick houses. The atmosphere here is fantastic and the accommodation is excellent: simple but attractive rooms with traditional bedding, hydronic heating and gleaming bathrooms with Western toilets. Be sure to opt for the full-board option as all of the food is sourced locally and is absolutely delicious – this place even has its own bread oven and large pool where carp are sourced. While here, you can stargaze, ride the guesthouse’s camels, take 4WD tours into the desert and generally soak up the seclusion. Highly recommended.

Khan-e Lari:

 (admission US$0.20; h7am-6pm, to 8pm summer) This 150-year-old building is one of the best-preserved Qajar-era houses in Yazd. The  badgirs, traditional doors, stained-glass windows, elegant archways and alcoves mark it out as one of the city’s grandest homes. The merchant family who built it have long gone, and it’s now home to architecture students and cultural heritage offi  cers. It’s signposted west of Zaiee Sq; see the walking tour (p 180 ) for directions.

Amir chakhmaq complex:

(Amir  Chakhmaq Sq; admission US$0.30; h7.30am-2.30pm Sat-Thu) The stunning threestorey facade of this  Hosseinieh makes it one of the largest such structures in Iran. Its rows of perfectly proportioned sunken alcoves are at their best, and most photogenic, around sunset when the light softens and the towering exterior is discreetly floodlit. Recent work has added arcades at the side to keep traffic away from the structure. You can climb to the 1st floor of the structure and look over the square, but higher levels are not accessible. Underneath the complex is a  bazaar where kababis specialise in jigar (grilled liver). In front of the Hosseinieh, look out for the huge wooden palm nakhl, an important centrepiece once used for the observance of the Shiites’ passionate Ashura commemorations.

 Saheb A Zaman Club Zurkhaneh :

(admission US$1.80; hworkouts 6am, 6pm & 8pm Sat-Thu) Just off  the north side of Amir Chakhmaq Sq is the Saheb A Zaman Club Zurkhaneh, which is worth seeing both for its Iranian brand of body building and because it’s a quite an amazing structure. The modern club is inside a cavernous ab anbar (water reservoir) built about 1580. Looking like a 29m-high standing egg from the inside, and crowned with fi ve burly badgirs, the reservoir stored water for much of the town. The hour-long workouts in the Zurkhaneh are an interesting window on Iranian culture; see (p 292 ). Note: only males are admitted.

Ateshkadeh :

(Sacred Eternal Flame; Kashani St; admission US$0.90; h8am-noon & 3-6pm Sat-Thu) Zoroastrians come from around the world to see this  ateshkadeh, often referred to as the Zoroastrian Fire Temple and said to have been burning since about AD 470. Visible through  
DESERT NIGHTS T he tiny settlement of F arahzad, 425km from Esfahan, is an oasis located amid sand dunes in the Dasht-e Kavir, just outside the village of Mesr. Its residents, all members of one extended family, make a living from agriculture and by operating Barandaz Lodge (%0324-434 2188, 0913 323 4188; www.mesr.info; full board per person US$35, B&B US$10), an 11-room guesthouse occupying two beautifully restored mud-brick houses. The atmosphere here is fantastic and the accommodation is excellent: simple but attractive rooms with traditional bedding, hydronic heating and gleaming bathrooms with Western toilets. Be sure to opt for the full-board option as all of the food is sourced locally and is absolutely delicious – this place even has its own bread oven and large pool where carp are sourced. While here, you can stargaze, ride the guesthouse’s camels, take 4WD t ours into the desert and generally soak up the seclusion. Highly recommended.
179
CENTRAL IRAN  CENTRAL IRAN TOURS CENTRAL IRAN YAZD 

a window from the entrance hall, the fl ame was transferred to Ardakan in 1174, then to Yazd in 1474 and to its present site in 1940. Above the entrance you can see the Fravahar symbol 

Free:Dakhmeh-ye Zartoshtiyun

Towers of Silence; h24hr) These evocative Zoroastrian  Towers of Silence are set on two lonely, barren hilltops on the southern outskirts of Yazd. They haven’t been used since the 1960s. At the foot of the hills are several other disused Zoroastrian buildings, including a defunct well and a water cistern and two small  badgirs. The modern Zoroastrian cemetery is nearby. The easiest way to get here is by taxi dar baste for about US$7.50 return, including waiting time of 45 minutes or so while you climb to the top of the towers and back. One way will cost US$2.70.

THE QANAT:

 or at least 2000 years Iranians have been digging  qanats (underground water channels) to irrigate crops and supply drinking water. To build a qanat it’s necessary to fi rst identify an underground water source. This source could be more than 100m deep, but as the whole system is reliant on gravity, it must be higher than the fi nal destination. The next step is to dig a tunnel just wide and tall enough to crawl along, so that the water can fl ow across an extremely shallow gradient to its destination. The mounds of soil you’ll see in long lines across the desert are the top of wells, dug to dispose of excavated soil and allow ventilation. Because of the hazards and expense of constructing a qanat, complex laws govern every aspect of their use and maintenance. Iran is thought to have more than 50,000 qanats. While modern irrigation projects now take priority, qanats and other traditional methods of supplying water are still very important. And as hundreds of towns and villages – including Bam, Kashan and Mahan – still rely on qanats for water, the highly skilled and well-paid qanat builders of Yazd won’t be picking up redundancy cheques for many years yet. F or the low-down on qanats, head for the  Yazd Water Museum (%626 8340; Amir Chakhmaq Sq; admission IR10,000; h8am-7pm), located in a restored mansion that happens to have a qanat or two underneath. The displays are clear and mostly in English.

warning:

 Yazd and the surrounding desert areas are backpacker hubs, and there is a small number of dodgy tourism operators focussing on this segment of the tourism market. On our last trip we encountered a number of problems, including desperate and somewhat nasty competition between some tour guides (both accredited and unaccredited) and the increasingly erratic public behaviour of a guide once recommended in this book but subsequently deleted after a number of complaints by travellers. Be careful about what guide you use. A lso of concern is an outfit  off ering cheap but unlicensed (and therefore illegal) homestay accommodation in the area around Khoor in the Dasht-e Kavir. These guys use other young travellers (some foreign) to drum up business by sending them into hostels in Tehran, Shiraz and Yazd, where they entice prospective guests with promises of dirt-cheap accommodation, alcohol and even drugs. Needless to say, if you’re in an illegal homestay where there is alcohol and/or drugs and the place is raided by police, you will be in serious trouble. Don’t risk it.

Hotel and Hostel:

More than 10 khan-e sonnati (traditional houses) have now been transformed into hotels in  Yazd. The result is 24-hour cultural immersion; you can see the sights of this historic city by day, and then sit on takhts, sip tea and eat local food as Iranians have for centuries. Alternatively, there are three excellent midrange choices that aren’t housed in traditional buildings but off er characterful and comfortable accommodation. Not surprisingly, the old city is the most atmospheric area to stay in. Almost all hotels off er day trips out of the city, and prices are in proportion to room rates – the Silk Road Hotel off ers the cheapest in town and is consistently reliable. In the off  season, most midrange and topend hotels off er a 30% discount.

Friendly hotel:

8 euro each night for each person (dormitory)

Orient Hotel:

 (%625 2730, 0913 151 6361; www.silkroadhotel group.com; 6th Alley, off  Masjed-e Jameh St; dm/s/d/tr US$11/36/54/62; aiW) Owned and operated by the crew from the Silk Road Hotel, the Orient is set around two high-sided courtyards and off ers a range of rooms (some with air-cond) with hard beds and an attractive six-bed dorm with shared bathroom (squat toilet only). The rooftop Marco Polo Restaurant (buff et dinner US$11) has a great view over the Masjed-e Jameh but is only open when tour groups are staying at the hotel. The group’s third hotel, the Oasis (%625 2730, 0913 151 6361; www .silkroadhotelgroup.com; Seyyed Roknoddin Alley; r per person US$15), is in a less-attractive building behind the Bogheh-ye Sayyed Roknaddin and off ers cheap rooms with bathroom (Western sit-down toilet).

 Rose Traditional Hotel:

(%622 5790-92; Farhang Alley, off  Imam Khomeini St; s/d/tr US$27/40/53; aW) Deep in the Old City, this unpretentious little place is in desperate need of refurbishment but is listed here due to its relatively low prices. Rooms are dark but have decent bathrooms with Western toilets. Don’t be confused by the exterior signage, which says Kimia Hotel. No English is spoken.

 Soroosh Guesthouse:

(%626 5159; off  Basij Ave; s/tw/tr US$18/27/31; a) Popular with Iranian workers, this place is set in an attractive building and offers cheap rooms with hard beds and smelly bathrooms (squat toilet). It’s only worth considering if you’re on a tight budget and don’t want to stay in a dorm.

I heard about 711 hotel I think it is cheap but I do not know about exactly price.

First time to Iran: the Essential Seven

This article is from a foreign tourist who had travel in IRAN:

Traveling in Iran is safe, easy and absolutely worth it. Here are a few things that you are ought to know before you head on your great Persian adventure!

1. It’s ‘only cash’ world for foreigners. No foreign cards or travel cheques are accepted in Iran, so you will have to bring everything in cash. Euro or US dollar both work everywhere, yet often, when you pay in foreign currency, they are converted 1:1, 25 Euro being 25 USD, while some places will return the difference in Iranian Rials.

2. Be ready for some complex math, millionaire! You might already know it, but it is so confusing that it’s worth pointing it out once more. One euro is something around 40 000 Iranian rials (2017-03), but locals count in Tomans. 1 Toman is 10 rials and locals often skip the word thousand. If you are told 5, that means 5 000 Tomans, so search for the bill of 50 000 rials. In your mind divide it from 40 000 and here you are paying a bit more than 1 euro. Also note that there are several colours for the same bill. So yes, good luck with that.

3. Booking accommodation is a bit of a headache, be prepared. Sanctions mean 3 options on booking.com so you will have to do a lot of search on your own. While Iranian web designers have their own trends going, like who needs contacts information, or lets hide language change button, but hey, you have animated doors opening when you click on rooms! Your Iran experience starts before you actually head on the road.

4. Get yourself a VPN app. Facebook and some other websites are blocked in Iran, so if you want to use these, you need a VPN app. It is easy to use, simply open the app, connect it and do everything as you usually would. I used Hotspot Shield for iPhone.

5. Get a local sim card (you can get one at the airport or at a hostel). Mobile internet is rather good, especially in larger cities, while wifi is usually pretty slow.

6. If you are a girl, bring a scarf  to cover your hair. You should put it on before landing. My advice – buy a hijab for travelling in Iran, I personally found a scarf very uncomfortable and it kept falling off, so I invested 3 euros into a black hijab. Buying it was a whole adventure, wearing it made my life on the road much easier and I got home a great souvenir that all my girlfriends tried on. Iranian women wear various scarfs on daily basis, a black hijab like I bought is worn on public service, university and other official matters, while the big black ground long cloth is called Chador and is worn by choice and you will see more of it in the rural areas.

7. Be careful in the traffic while travelling in Iran. I never thought I will say it, but in Tehran traffic is worse than in New Delhi! Have a look at this video, crossing a street in Iran is the most dangerous thing you will experience. Try to cross together with locals and never run, when you are crossing the street cars will go around you without decreasing their speed, so running is a bad idea. Renting a car in Iran is not only difficult, but also dangerous, as you need to get to know the traffic rules. Furthermore, public transport is great, VIP busses are cheap and really comfortable, the only thing missing there are toilets. And if you want to go off the beaten track, rent a car with a driver, petrol is cheap, so it will not cost you a fortune.

IRAN Visa On Arrival

IRAN Visa On Arrival(VOA)

a foreign person who have been in iran told:

"I've just come back from Iran and this was the current status of VOAs:

They're now valid for 30 days and costs are 12 euro for compulsory health insurance (this you buy before doing the visa process) and 100 euro for the visa (possible to pay in USD as well). It cost US$136 total for one VOA. The guy at the desk required either a sponsor or a list of all the hotels we stayed in - we gave him a list with phone numbers as he called each to confirm - and did not need our passport photos as he just photocopied our passport face pages. We had to fill out a brief form giving our passport details, address, father's name, and job.

The guy didn't care about the old US visas that were in our passports; we were New Zealanders and Australians. One friend who came in separately said he'd been quizzed about why he was visiting, where he was coming from and what he did for a living (he did not tell the truth on that last question).

You can get an authentication code if you go through a travel agent in Iran, which costs 50 euro, and this will take 10 days and must be picked up at the embassy or airport in your departure city before you go. The VOA then still costs 50 euro at the airport. We found they weren't necessary, but may have sped the process at the airport up a little"

some of the another foreign people experience about IRAN visa on arrival:

1

Iran has quite recently introduced visa on arrival, which is great news, however, just as with many bureaucracies, this one raises a whole bunch of questions, so here is my experience from 2017 February with EU passport. Note, that it differs from country to country and places you have been to (like Israel and Iran do not get along well).Since making a visa in an embassy or consulate was too complicated (nearest consulate is in another country and the procedure is quite absurd), I had to take my chances with the visa on arrival. Spoiler alert – I got the visa, but frankly, I am still not completely sure what one needs in order to obtain it.So here is the summary of what I’ve gathered before my trip and what actually happened at the border.

Iran has been my dream, so I was equipped to enter: passport (valid for more than 6 month and with an empty page for the new visa), insurance claiming being valid in the whole world including Iran, yes, it is the same as with Russia, whole world concept does not include them, it must be specified separately (my insurance wouldn’t not do that, it stated simply Asia). I had fake-booked hotelsto cover all my travel period in Iran, as without train tickets and specific plan I could not know for sure where & when I will be.

Booking accommodation in Iran: As booking.com has literally 3 options for accommodation and as you can’t really pay a deposit without an Iranian account, the booking confirmation is a simple e-mail (so obscure that one property kindly asked me to remind them a month before about my arrival, yes, remind them that I booked a room!).

I read on Trip Advisor that they might call up the property to verify your booking (one guy claimed it has actually happened to him), so if you book or fake book make sure the confirmation indicates dates, address and phone number.

And of course I had my outbound flight ticket and exactly 75 euro in cash

Imam Khomeini International Airport, almost midnight, we two and some 10 others are lining up at the visa on arrival window. An unpleasant guy is angrily shouting something through the window (he was the first and the most unpleasant guy I met throughout the whole trip!) and all the foreigners so lost and confused forming that instant desperate friendship with one another.

We are handed out forms, that we fill in while standing and moving with the line, and my turn comes before I’m done with mine. I start flashing all my homework, but the guy could not care less for all my papers. He grabs my passport, half-filled form and asks if we have insurance. From us two, he takes only one form, the half filled one with my name and my data, somehow it covers us both. Don’t ask. We are handed a piece of paper with hand written 2×75 (for nationals of Lithuania visa is 75 euro per person), we pay at a nearby window and that is it. I carefully ask the main guy what’s next, and he says ‘wait’ and smiles. And so we do.

My friend took his insurance to the 3rd window to get it stamped, as advised. It was a world wide credit card insurance, so it did not state being valid in Iran, but it did indicate not being valid in Israel, which the official found pretty funny and he stamped it and added it being valid for both of us (or at least that’s what we think he wrote).

Some 20 minutes and they start calling us by names and giving back our passports with the pretty fresh visas in themIt does somewhat feel like a no man’s land there, so my advice, keep polite, do not get irritated, do not question the system and you should be fine. And if you behave, a guard may give you saffron ice cream!

PS. At this point Visa on Arrival is available only at Imam Khomeini International airport.

PS2. One cannot enter Iran if in the past 12 months has been to Israel. I went to Iran a bit more than a year after I had been to Israel. However, I did not get my passport stamped in Israel, I was issued little cards upon arrival and upon departure, so judging by my passport there was no way to tell I had ever been to Israel. Nor I was asked about it or had to mark it in the form I was given at the airport, so am not sure how much it actually applies.

2

Hi there, I'm Australian and arrive in Tehran on Friday (in the wee hours - 3:30am). I know a couple of recent posts say that the passport photos and accom details weren't needed, but in favour of being safer than sorry I wanted to have it all in order just in case. Can anyone confirm whether the passport photos require a headscarf? Also, do you need to wear hijab during the flight or only on arrival? 
Would love any advice on how people booked accommodation for Tehran (solo backpacker)..? 
Thanks in advance!

3

Anne karel:"Hello, too bad I read this topic too late. I filled in the form at iranianvisa.com, because I thought this was the official website (stupid!) to arrange the VOA. I tried to cancel the application, but now they send me a couple of emails with the following message back:

"The applications can not be cancelled from the foreign ministry after submission. Your details have already registered at the foreign ministry’s system.
And whether you want to use it or not, in both cases you need to pay the service fee you requested us.
If you do not know the visa processing and what you requested from us, this is your fault.
Please notice that the applications are registered automatically upon receipt of the applications on our system. According to our website’s terms of service which you have accepted by submitting your application on our website, you need to pay the service fee for the application you submitted and cancellation is not an option.
Also you can not apply again because, whenever you arrive at the airport and have an uncompleted application at the MFA’s system , you can not have a new application and double one at the same time and they will check your consular file and can not enter Iran."

Does anyone else experienced this problem with this agency or has advise what to do?
I already contacted the Iranian embassy to ask if we can apply again at the airport, but the guy wasn't very helpfull and said we just have to cancel the application and it will be allright at the airport.
But this isn't an option..."

4

Kalyaran:"I am just back from Iran and what I saw was so many people getting Visa on Arrival. Most were Europeans and they just showed invitation letter and passport or hotels booking, air ticket and so on. The staff give you a paper to go to the bank next to the immigration desk to pay in Euro (as I am Brazilian citizen, I paid 80 Euros, but each nationality has its own price) and also a paper to go to the "insurance desk", which costs about 12 Euros. Surely you can see the staff dont act with good will and there are lots of people around, nobody queuing... It´s something crazy. You have to skip the line so that someone can draw attention to you.

As I have no European passport, I contacted a travell agency first (http://www.iranianvisa.com) and paid them 68 Pounds, but they are nothing professional. If you wanna use a travel agency, I´d better recommend this one: http://www.irantravelingcenter.com/visa-iran-visa/, although I observed none had trouble in getting Visa in Iran at the Airport even they were not Europeans.
The Air Company asked me for Visa before departing in Rome, but I told them my nationality does not require in advance. The Check in lady said she knows, but If I had, would be better, so, it is up to you if you want to board withouth giving explanations or if you want to board with the number of authorization the agency give you before departing and just show it to the airline withouth speaking too much.
Good luck!"

5

Kiwidave:"I used the Tehran Grand:

http://booking.com/5f301e85cd264b9cc

Not cheap at around £100 a night, and far more extravagant than the sorts of place I'd prefer to stay in (small family-run hotels, B&Bs, or similar). Despite its grand appearance, there wasn't much character to the place and it seems mostly aimed at businessmen. But the location is decent, as are the rooms and facilities.

The further north you go in Tehran the more interesting things are and, as you can probably see, booking.com has all of 4 hotels registered in all of Tehran. Tripadvisor appears to have a larger selection.

Given sanctions, you'll find all hotels in Tehran are in need of some renovation and while the 4* or 5* ranking of the hotels was probably once fair, they are generally more than a little bit worn out now. So don't expect anything amazing.

No idea how much this one costs, but looking at the location and reviews "Sepehr Apartment Hotel" may be a better bet"

"I don't think a visa on arrival is available with a UK passport. At least that was the case in July 2016.

The price on a NZ passport is about US$150. I got the impression this was slightly variable and dependent on who you were handing the cash over to. A European passport is about half that price - I have no idea what the NZ govt has done to annoy Iran but clearly we aren't on their favourite list"

6

"My wife and I (HK passport) entered Iran through Tehran International Airport today. The process was easy and fast.

When we approached the Visa counter, we were immediately directed to prchase insurance (euro 14 / person). After that, the official just took a glance at the passport and requested a local contact prrson (first night hotel confirmaion and contacts) and directed us to the bank next door to pay euro 100 / person. After 30 minutes, the visa was ready!!

No photo needed
No itinerary needed
No forms to fill in
No question about my job and family (actually did not ask me anything)
I got an 2011 Israeli stamp on my passport and was no problem at all

The hotel confirmation was the only document submitted

Hotel we stayed in: Asia Hotel (usd35 for a double room with private bathroom, breakfast, wifi) outside Mellat Metro Station"

8 Reasons To Travel To Iran(1)

IRAN

From the moment we came back to Romania I haven’t stopped explaining people around me about how fascinating a country Iran is and that it is really worth it visiting it.

Many people think I am kidding but I assure you that I am as serious as possible. Iran has to be visited now, before the wave of change will reach it too.

Under the bad influence of mass media, most people took out Iran from the list of countries worth visiting, without being aware of what they are about to miss.

So here is the list of reasons that make Iran a country worth visiting:

1. People:

Iranians are warm, welcoming people, resembling very much the Romanians.

If you ask for a glass of water do not be surprised to be invited to dinner.

In large cities (Teheran, Esfahan, Shiraz) you will surely find plenty of people speaking English, so no problems as regards the communication

2-Affordable rates:

We travel usually “low budget”, but Iran is a country were the prices were more than reasonable.

Accommodation, transport, food had an excellent quality/ price ratio.

For instance for a double room in a decent hostel one has to pay around 25$(breakfast included)

3-Incredible historical sites:

 Everywhere there is something to be seen. Every step takes you on the wake of this fantastic mix of Persian and Islamic culture.

The fantastic ruins of Persepolis, the capital of the Persian Empire, Pasargadae,  Meidan-e Schah of Esfahan, the mosque Jame, the Persian gardens are only some of the many places we visited and are included on the Unesco World Heritage

4-Authenticity:

Beside the world wide renowned historical sites this country abounds in places of amazing charm, like the bazaar of Esfahan, where I kept going whenever I had a little spare time.

Whether they are fantastic landscape or architectonical jewels, like bridges, palaces, mosques, they are all wonderful and worth visiting.

J’adore Iran

5- Transport:

A nice surprise was to discover the very well developed highway network.

One can travel very easily from one point to another in the country just by taking the very comfortable buses that keep roaming the highways.

The rates are very affordable and the staff was always polite.

As for the taxis, one can find them everywhere and use them in all confidence.

6-Food :

If you enjoy eating then go quickly to Iran.  Persian food is extremely tasty and sophisticated. We also enjoyed the sweets very much

7-safety:

We have felt as safe in Iran as in our beloved city of Deva, Romania. We walked late by night time on the bazaar of Shiraz , crawling with people, on the busy boulevards of Esfahan but also on the narrow streets of Yazd and everywhere we felt at ease and safe.

8-You break a false myth:

If you visit Iran I can guarantee you that all your stereotypes about Islamic culture and Iran in general will fall down and you will be looking forward to come back again in this breathtaking country.

these words are belong to a foreign person who have been in iran

So, do it now before it is too late

*Please leave me a message about why you would or not visit Iran and if there is something that particularly interest I would gladly answer your questions

advice for Qom

Another advice. If you go to Qom, and after you pick the bus to Kashan, the bus is outside of the city. You will have to go to the bus stop by taxi, and when you arrive there some non official drivers will tell you that there are no buses. Don't trust them, there are buses each 30-45 min.

Also, in Fatima's mausoleum, you dont have to pay nothing... no ticket for entry or leave your bagagge at the entrance|

Picture from Kashan